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Chinese knife work has a reputation for virtuosity that puts people off learning any of it. The theatrical side — the paper-thin cucumber slices, the carved garnishes — is restaurant work and you don't need it.

What you do need is four cuts, and they exist for a practical reason: in food that cooks in under two minutes, size and shape determine whether everything finishes at the same moment. A stir-fry with unevenly cut ingredients is a stir-fry where something is raw and something is overcooked.

The Knife

A Chinese cleaver is not a cleaver. It's a general-purpose knife with a tall, thin, rectangular blade used for slicing, dicing, mincing, and crushing ginger. Only the heavier versions are meant for bone, and they're a separate tool.

The tall blade matters because it lets you scoop ingredients off the board, and the flat side is what you use to smash garlic and ginger. The weight does the work of slicing; you shouldn't be pressing down.

If you'd rather not buy one, a good chef's knife does everything on this page. The cuts are the point, not the tool.

The Four Cuts

Slices (pian): straight cuts, used for everything from ginger coins to thinly sliced pork. For meat, slice across the grain and slightly on the bias, which gives you larger pieces and shortens the muscle fibers.

Matchsticks or julienne (si): slices stacked and cut into thin strips, roughly 3 mm square. This is the cut for yu xiang pork, and the reason it's specified is that a 3 mm carrot and a 3 mm piece of pork finish cooking at the same time.

Dice or cubes (ding): matchsticks cut crosswise into small cubes, typically 1 cm. Used for kung pao chicken and for most braised dishes. Consistent cubes matter more than small cubes.

Roll cuts (gun dao): for long cylindrical vegetables like carrot or daikon. Cut at an angle, roll the vegetable a quarter turn, cut again. This gives irregular wedges with a lot of surface area, which brown well and look deliberate rather than sloppy.

Practicing Cheaply

Buy a bag of carrots and a head of cabbage and cut them. Speed comes from repetition, not from technique tips, and the feedback loop is fast — you can see immediately whether your matchsticks are the same thickness.

Keep the knife sharp. A sharp cheap knife cuts better than a dull expensive one, and most of what people attribute to poor knife skills is actually a dull edge.

Get the supporting-hand position right first: fingertips curled under, knuckles against the flat of the blade, thumb behind. It feels awkward for about an hour and then it doesn't.

David Garrison

David Garrison

Equipment and technique

David Garrison writes about equipment and technique for Flavor Quest.

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